Asking for advice-Disneyland HK

We are going to Disney HK in 3 weeks to celebrate various birthdays (primarily E’s).  I’ve booked the birthday add ons for the room (streamers, balloons and such), the meals with characters, the birthday cake to be given at a meal, and a princess makeover for E

Staying at the Disneyland HK Hotel, 3 days 2 nights.

Also worth noting-the halloween thing will be happening

Apart from that—lay it on me–tips, tricks, advice, warnings–GO!

Disneyland, Anaheim, California (USA)-2005

Visiting Sydney with kids under 4

I probably have a few more posts about Sydney kicking around, but I thought I’d do a general post about visiting Sydney with little kids, as it’s an easy vacation destination from Singapore.

We flew Singapore Airlines both ways, and I have nothing but good things to say about them.  There were little gifts for the kids (a stuffed shrek head for Rhi, a coloring set for Ellie), pre-school tv on demand (Sesame Street, Handy Manny, My Little Pony, Little Einsteins, etc) along with kid-sized headphones, and nothing but smiles and kind words for my girls (even when Elanor pushed the call button several times when she was sitting with my in-laws). While they’re more expensive then other options, if you can, I would spring for the airfare (in fact, I’ve insisted that I’m springing for Singapore Airlines when I fly solo with the girls to the US this summer)

We stayed at the Shangri-La hotel in The Rocks section of Sydney.  While the rooms were great, the views spectacular, and the room service delicious (a shocker for this hotel veteran-room service is usually awful), it is located at the top of a hill so steep that stairs are cut into it.  Which led me to my first major disillusionment about Sydney–Parts of Sydney resemble San Francisco.  I had not expected it to be so difficult to push a stroller around.

If we returned, I’m not so sure that we would stay there again as long as we were pushing a stroller up the mountain hill…in the street, which was not so fun OR we were taking long circuitous paths back to avoid stairs/hills taller than Mount Doom.  If you travel to Sydney, pick your hotel thoughtfully.

Must see places included the Aquarium and the Wild Life Zoo, both in Darling Harbour (see, I spelled it right this time, K!).  Also worth a stop is the playground behind the IMAX theater in Darling Harbour, which for the record was what Elanor said was her favorite part of the entire trip.

We went to Taronga Zoo, but it looks like it hasn’t been refreshed since my husband saw it at age 8 in 1985.  There is very little to recommend Taronga–it doesn’t have anything you can’t find at Wild Life, the Aquarium or our own Singapore Zoo (and there are some giant spiders spinning webs in the trees over the walkways, if that happens to freak you out as much as it does me).  The ride on the ferry to and from the zoo was the highlight for me.

I would also highly recommend the Australian Museum.  I left Ellie behind, thinking she’d either be too hyper or too bored by a museum.  Little did I know that they’ve designed kiosks and connections throughout the exhibits to specifically engage kids under 5.  I was pretty disappointed I didn’t take her by the end.  (For adults/older kids, there’s a really great exhibit on the social activism and justice issues surrounding the way the aboriginal peoples were treated by the Europeans that really impressed me as well).

While traveling with kids is by no means painless, it is a very different look at a city than you’d have as a child-less (or partner-less) adult.  For example, while my attention was captured by things like architectural details on older buildings, Ellie’s sharp eye saw this sign.  She was thrilled, and demanded to have her picture taken by a giant “3″ because she’s three.  She didn’t “get” the jokes on the bus tour, but she pointed out some beautiful flowers hanging from a basket.  She didn’t appreciate the high quality beef at the restaurants, but had a great time throwing McDonald’s french fries to the seagulls.

Perhaps the most frustrating thing (apart from the sidewalk stairs) were the cab drivers.  It is worth noting that Australia (or at least Sydney) has a car seat law for kids under 1.  Which is great.  Except that most cab drivers just refuse the fare of a family with a baby rather than deal with you.  I happen to have a stroller set up where my car seat attaches to a stroller frame, and I had a multitude of cab drivers tell me that my car seat (a) wasn’t a car seat (b) wasn’t safe–it has the highest safety rating in the US at the time of purchase (c) wouldn’t fit in their car or just flat out refused my fare because of the baby even after I showed them that it was a car seat.  They also refused fares that they felt were too short.  After three days of fighting with cab drivers, I actively began to try to plan my day to not need them (or to deal with them as infrequently as possible).  They are truly some of the most unpleasant drivers I’ve dealt with…and I lived in New York City at one time.

Sydney wasn’t what I expected (there was a distinct lack of kangaroos hopping about, for one–WTF TV, have you taught me nothing true?) but it was a fun city to have a laid back family vacation.  I think it’s probably an easier trip if all your kids can walk (call it three+?) or if you baby wear because of all the stairs, but definitely worth visiting while your kids are young.

Random Things from Boston

Since my small tidbits post from yesterday went over well, I’m going to do it again, as there are so many things I meant to post about while home and didn’t, or feel as though they might not merit an individual post.

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My in-laws were awesome and put up a tree for the girls!

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My super crafty mom made these.  If I could’ve figured out how to get one home safely, I would’ve “borrowed” the one in the middle.

She also made some gorgeous things for the girls that I’ll have to showcase in another post, including a blanket she and my aunt designed and made that matches our “rainforest” themed baby furniture, a pillowcase with Ariel embroidered on it for Ellie, and a CNY decoration for the Year of the Dragon.

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How freaking cute is she in her winter coat, hats mittens and boots?

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On the subject of winter and cold weather, I was out with my friends Kate and Curt.  I’d left Ellie with my in-laws, but had Rhiannon with me.  We left the warm Prudential Center Mall to walk to Newbury Comics, which is a few blocks away.  The look on poor Rhi’s face when we stepped out into the bitter cold can only be described thusly…

“Wha???  WTF???  MOMMY!!  WHAT IS THIS???”

Her eyes flew open wide and practically bugged out and she was staring at me in a mixture of shock and horror.

As she was appropriately bundled, Curt, Kate and I burst out laughing.

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I’ve known that I have two children for a while now…but for some reason, seeing my car’s back seat cluttered with two car seats blew my mind a bit.  Maybe it’s because when we first started dating, it was a fairly new car, and it was a huge sign of love when Ravi would occasionally let me drive it…the car predates our relationship, much less our marriage and our kids.

Poor car…you used to be so clean.

Speaking of the car, I don’t think I let Ravi drive even once.  Which he was fine with–he doesn’t like driving, and I LOVE driving, so we make a fairly good pair when it comes to that.  I also made a point of ditching both kids at least once so I could drive with LOUD MUSIC…which is one of life’s little pleasures.  Driving and shrieking along to my favorite music is very high on my list of things I love to do.

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Friends.

I’m getting this picture framed and putting it in Ellie’s room.  She asks to see it regularly and tells me that CJ and Z are her best friends.  She also wants to know when they can come over to play….

Um….

Aimee, Zach….want to field that one?

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The trip to Maine to see my grandfather marked another first for Rhi-her first stay at a hotel.  Here she is curled up with Ellie for storytime.  I love this picture of the girls.

Thinking of hotels…with the girls, I have really fallen for the homewood suites chain (which is part of Hilton).  Two rooms, a kitchenette, and space for all of us puts them high on my list.  Which is a far cry from my preferred hotels when it is just Ravi and I (think the Waldorf Astoria in NYC, the Drake in Chicago, etc…the grand dame hotels of yesteryear).

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We also got to stop in and see our friends as Isis Parenting in Needham.  I was especially psyched for Rhiannon to meet Nancy in person.  I first met Nancy when she led one of Ellie’s mom/baby classes at Isis, and we’ve stayed friends since.  She is a lactation consultant extraordinaire and my personal baby guru–if you have a baby, you should be following her on twitter–her streams of consciousness posts about babies, development, and breastfeeding are super helpful.

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One of the best things about being home was being in the same time zone as some of my dearest friends.  I didn’t have to stop and think to calculate the time differential.  I could just call them to talk about anything or everything.  Facebook, email, twitter and the blog make keeping in touch easy, but I wish I could just give a quick call in the middle of my day…and not have it be the middle of their night.

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We saw Elanor’s gastroenterologist while we were home.  Ellie is very small–she’s the smallest kid in her class, and as she has historically had weight gain issues, we wanted to talk to him about her growth.  As it turns out, she has stayed on her own little 2nd percentile curve.  He did suggest we talk to an endocrinologist in a year or two to evaluate if her growth hormone levels are appropriate, but he tactfully pointed out that neither Ravi nor I are terribly tall, so it’s not exactly out of the question that Ellie turn out to be petite as well.

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There are things that merit their own posts, like the little get together we had for people to come over and meet Rhi, our visit with Marvin and Rosemary to Rein’s NY Style Deli, our visit with our friend Dawn’s family (which was Ellie’s first encounter with a real violin as well as a fun visit with a friend).  I’ll be writing those over the next bit of time…poke me if I forget.

Traveling while pregnant

It is totally safe for a woman to fly until somewhere between her 32nd and 36th week, depending on her medical team’s opinion and the restrictions on a given airline.

However, this is not to say that it is necessarily easy.

With my first pregnancy, we traveled from Boston to Chicago when I was about 12 weeks pregnant, to Los Angeles and San Diego when I was about 20 weeks pregnant and finally to DC when I was about 30 weeks.  I was with Ravi on all three trips, and my health was much more predictably better.  While I might have thrown up a few times in Chicago, I had no issues with the flights, the motion, stamina, or anything, really.  Apart from not going on the vast majority of rides at Disneyland, and avoiding hot tubs, being pregnant didn’t have a huge impact on travel for me.

With this pregnancy, it has been a very different story.  When we came home to the US around my 12th week, the smells of food and coffee in an enclosed space with recycled air made me nauseous to the point of breathing through my shirt and one dash to the bathroom (where thankfully I was spared being sick).  Heading back to Singapore, I was lucky that my friend Jim was along, and he helped with the carrying of heavy things.

This week of travel has been the first time I have traveled alone while pregnant, and I have found it very challenging for a variety of reasons.

  • Having to lift heavy things is never a good idea for me (I have a bad back) but when I had to drag two suitcases all over seatac to get to my rental car and then back to check in, I ended up having a few contractions due to the strain.
  • I have had to take it far easier and do far less on a daily basis than I did the last time around.  That’s been true of the pregnancy in general, but it can be particularly frustrating when in a new city (or cities).

As with many things, your mileage may vary and will likely depend on how your pregnancy is going overall.

What I’ve learned to do on this trip is something that is very hard for me–I have had to ask for help.  Help picking up my bags.  Help in the form of understanding when I’ve cancelled plans with a friend (as I had to this evening due to illness).  I have had to admit that I am NOT superwoman.  That this pregnancy has been difficult, and that I can only waddle around a city for so long before I need to sit down.  That I might need help in the form of driving from location to location and paying for parking rather than walking a mile or jumping on public transit. Help in the form of hiring a town car with driver to meet me so he can deal with my bags and with driving me to the hotel.  Help from kind people willing to get the pregnant woman’s bag from the overhead bin.  Help from strangers who let me have a seat on the airport train.  And when I haven’t been offered help, if I need it, I’m learning that it’s okay to say “excuse me, but could you help me with/by….”

I don’t think it’s a bad idea to travel while pregnant (obviously) but I do think it’s important to listen to your body and try to avoid once in a lifetime experiences that you might feel cheated by if you can’t do everything you wanted to.

For that very reason, Seattle, Portland and San Francisco were great choices for me.  Seattle is a new city to me, but I primarily went to see my friend.  The number of “tourist” things I wanted to do was fairly low.  With Portland, I only had two things on my agenda.  I’ve been San Francisco a number of times before, so I feel no pressure to do much of anything here except see my friends and family.

But that doesn’t mean I’m not relieved to know that I’ll be seeing Ravi and Ellie in less than 12 hours.  Having the support of a spouse will be a good help, and I miss the two of them like crazy.

I’ll post again soon with some pictures and stories from my trip so far.

No Kids Allowed

I wasn’t necessarily going to get into this in a public forum, but recently I’ve had many a private discussion on this topic.

There is a fairly recent movement in the US (and to some extent world-wide) banning kids from various places.  I can’t speak to the legality in places other than the US, but I’m fairly certain this is a problematic policy within the US.  I’ll get to why within a few minutes.  First, for those unfamiliar with it, this is a reasonable summary of recent bans.

Traveling is one thing, but what about in kids’ own hometowns? Should kids been banned from local movie theaters, like they were at a recent adults-only Harry Potter screening? In Texas, one cinema chain has even flipped the model, banning kids under six altogether, except on specified “baby days”.

Even running errands with toddlers may be changing.  This summer Whole Foods stores in Missouri are offering child-free shopping hours (kids are allowed inside but childcare service is available for parents who want to shop kid-free.) Meanwhile in Florida, a controversy brews over whether kids can be banned from a condominium’s outdoor area. That’s right, some people don’t even want kids outdoors.

Before we begin, allow me to concede a point…I have no problem with banning BEHAVIORS (unattended children running around, for example, as that poses a danger to themselves, others, and the goods being sold).  I’m a big fan of a behavior ban like the ban on smoking in a public place.  But banning a class of people is wrong.  What would be your response if I took out “children” and replaced it with “Asians” or “the blind” or “people with red hair.”  You’d wonder where the lawsuit was, wouldn’t you? At least in the US.

Disclaimer…I’m only talking about the US because that is the legal system I know best and as my home country I care the most about.

Children are a less protected class because, bluntly, they don’t vote, and thus our elected officials don’t care about them so much.  Wonder why Medicare and Social Security are such big issues?  Could it be that the elderly vote in larger numbers than any other group?  Nah, that couldn’t be it.

But are they?  The 14th Amendment’s equal protection clause has been broadly applied beyond protection for Blacks (for whom it was first written) and in the past 50 years it has been used to extend equal protect to various ethnicities, women, and other disadvantaged groups.  It is often cited as precedent in lawsuits that deal with discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation.  The Civil Rights act of 1968, which addresses housing, makes it illegal to discriminate in home/rental purchases/leases because of race, religion, sex, orientation and AGE (with the exception of Senior Housing, which has an exemption under the Housing for Older Person’s Act of 1995, as long as 80% of the building or more meets the definition of Senior Housing).  Under laws that define my right to breastfeed in a public domain, restaurants/cinemas/stores are all defined as PUBLIC PLACES that can not ask me to leave if I choose to breastfeed there.  So, if my kid is attached to my breast, you can’t kick me out, but if they’re in a sling, you can?  That’s just murky murky murky legal territory.  What about the ADA?  Can you actually ban an autistic child?  A blind child?  Does the ADA prevent the banning of a child with a disability?  Some of those “bad behaviors” they’re talking about are just a child with autism or another disability–should their parents never let them out of the house?  Considering all four potential arguments, I think there’s a real legal case, if someone wants to go ahead and start suing.  Perhaps parents banding together on behalf of their kids?

Look, I was childless once upon a time.  I worked retail.  I worked hotels.  I worked restaurants.  There were points where I hated children.  Where I would’ve given my left arm to not be exposed to them and the running around and running into expensive stuff, and the screaming and the whining and the….

So sure, I get where the gut reaction comes from.

But it’s a slippery slope.  At what age do children then have the right to be anywhere?  When they’re 6?  Is there a magic switch that flips the second they turn six?  I was a classroom teacher and I’m going to share a little secret with you–NO, there isn’t.  Can you ban boys but not girls since boys are stereotypically more likely to be active and “problematic” in their behaviors?  Can you ban children who are less than X inches tall?  Only if they’re not in a stroller?  Where does protection and the rights of a citizen in your home country begin?  If you can ban kids, who else can you ban?  Men with long hair?  Women driving minivans?  It’s taking the argument to an extreme, but banning a child is an extreme position to take in the first place.

But there is a moral side to this…that it’s just plain wrong to exclude a class of people from a public space.

The heart of the matter is behavior.  The proponents of these bans are starting from a base assumption…children behave badly.

Please allow me to pose several questions in response

  • When do children magically learn to behave?
  • How are they supposed to learn to behave in a specific setting if they have no experience in that sort of setting?
  • What about adults who behave badly?  Why do I have to tolerate the drunk adult but not the well-behaved 5 year old?  For that matter, I’ll take a screaming baby over a person wearing too much cologne on an airplane any day.
  • What about kids who don’t behave badly?
  • What rights, if any, does a two year old have?

Perhaps I’m coming at this from a vastly different set of experiences.  I live abroad, I have flown and traveled extensively with my child.  As a stay at home mom in the US, my daughter came EVERYWHERE with me for the 17 months we lived there because not having her with me meant finding a sitter (which, sure, I sometimes did, but often it was easier for me just to take her).  As a person of a higher than average income, I patronize a wide variety of establishments, and I’ve flown first class and business class with my child (although only domestic first, which to my mind is really “business,” but we’ve flown international business with Elanor).   Elanor has stayed at 4/5/6 star hotel properties, including the Waldorf Astoria, the London Astoria, several Conrads (the highest end hotel in the Hilton chain) and she has eaten at a number of expensive restaurants.  I have even taken her into Prada when I wanted to drool over shoes I’d never buy (or at least wouldn’t buy new–I have a pair of second hand Prada heels I picked up for $100 at a consignment store I still gloat over).

So let’s start with some facts.

Why would a person fly in first class with a baby?

Domestic US?  Because there’s a teensy bit more room, it’s easier to fit a carseat into the seat without worrying about a collision with the seat in front of you, and it’s more comfortable on longer flights.

International First?  Keep in mind that my travel time from Singapore home to Boston is about 30 hours door to door.  Personally I’m a fan of getting the kid a seat as soon as they’re old enough to be squirmy/not just hang out in the sling (let’s call it 6-10 months and on).  BUT I am under NO obligation to do so until they’re 2 years of age.  Given that, a seat that turns into a bed, the extra room to spread out (most first class seats on international flights are individual pods, which would give my child somewhere to play at my feet without extending into the aisle or anyone’s personal space), privacy to breastfeed were I less comfortable with doing so (reclined, the seat has an effective shield giving you a bit more privacy).  That the flight attendants are more attentive would help if I needed support in preparing a bottle at a time when food is not being served.  If I were flying alone and could afford it, I’d do it in a heartbeat with a very young (in my case over 6 months under walking age) child.

International Business?  Been there done, that, would fly it every time if it were in our budget.  If we only flew home once a year instead of twice (or this year, three times), it might be.  Instead, we always try to upgrade based on our frequent flier status and using a combo of cash and miles.  Why?  For one, Elanor can sit in her Britax Carseat (which isn’t small and is a giant pain in the ass to put into an economy seat, even though it is FAA certified for that seat) without her feet being crushed by the reclining seat in front of her (a real issue in economy).  She has room to stretch her legs, and we have room to walk around her carseat.  Want a night mare?  Try climbing over a car seat with a two year old in it, while pregnant, from the horrid middle seats.  THAT IS HELL.  The business seats, while not doing a full flat recline to a bed like the first seats do, do allow for a significant recline, which on a 16 hour leg is a GODSEND.  Particularly when your child has an ear infection, and while on antibiotics and safe for travel, is still not happy and just wants to sleep ON YOU (yup, that was me in May with 2 1/2 year old Ellie from Japan to Singapore–she never cried, just curled up on my chest and we both slept almost the entire way).  Space is worth money, especially when you’re facing down 30 hours of travel.

As for banning kids in a section of the airplane?  Let me tell you a little secret from someone who has sat in every section except the super rich private suites they have on Singapore Airlines…the only thing between you and the cabin behind you is a cloth curtain.  It holds no noise reducing/eliminating magic. And the first seats in the business and economy sections?  ARE THE ONLY PLACE THAT BASSINETS CAN BE PLACED.  That’s right, I said bassinets.

This is a baby bassinet on United.  As with all airlines, it can only be installed in the bulkhead row of business or economy (I’m sure there’s something in first, but I have no idea) of an international flight (or I believe a domestic long haul flight such as East to West coast).  If you’re in the last row of business and I’m in the first row of economy (or you’re in the last row of first and I’m in the first row of business)…guess what, you can hear my kid cry.

But here’s the ugly truth no one wants to admit about babies who cry on airplanes.  (1) They’re not doing it to ruin your flight…they can’t yawn to adjust to the pressure of the altitude.  Some kids are more sensitive to it.  The way they can adjust to altitude is by breastfeeding (which most of the people who want to ban kids also hate) or by drinking from a bottle (if they do that).  E never had many issues with atltitude, but she’d get fussy if she were sleepy or hungry or wanted a diaper change.  Babies cry, so did you, move on. (2) It’s not actually that loud…they’re competing with giant jet engines…if you’re further than a few rows away, you can’t hear it at all after take off…AND you (the adult can put on headphones…and if you have any sound coming out, you can’t hear them…I say this as the adult who wasn’t in charge of our crying baby and was sitting right next to her…couldn’t hear it at all). (3) The parents are actually more stressed by it than you’ll ever have the capacity to be, and we’re doing something about it.  Even when it looks like I’m not doing something about it, I am.  E never went to sleep if you were rocking her, she needed to fuss for five-ten minutes before she could sleep.  So I put her in the bassinet, gritted my teeth and let her cry…and five minutes later she was out.

So why should the airline care?  First of all, if they can make more money off of me (and if I have the kid in lap in first or business–or economy, for that matter–I’m paying more than you are for the seat).  Secondly, my kid might have status (that’s right, my 2 year old is a United Frequent Flier Premiere Member…and is ENTITLED to that first class domestic seat, and in January she’ll be a Premiere Executive, which also entitles her ONE HER OWN to get into international lounges as well as those upgrades) and possibly (in our case probably) represents far more revenue than you, a transient domestic passenger does.  Who should they make more of an effort to keep happy?  The one time non-frequent flier status holder domestically or the international frequent flier with status who represents over 10k a year in revenue?  (And while I don’t fly first internationally with my kids, I’m going to bet celebs do, and their kids have WAY more status than mine).  There’s also the fact that not all airlines have banned kids, so I might jump to another airline and give our combined revenue to Delta or American or someone else not in your carrier group.  While Maylaysia Air (who is not actually all that big a player, let’s be honest) might not give a damn….United most likely does care.

Side note—hotels–same rules apply.  As a Hilton Diamond member (their highest level of status) they’re going to care more about keeping me happy (which means having things to accomodate my child, which they all do from the Waldorf on down) than they do about the person who maybe stays once a year.  I refuse to stay at a Hampton Inn because you don’t like my kid.  If I can afford the Waldorf, (and they’ve gotten rid of the bedbugs) I’m staying there.  Deal with it.

Waldorf Astoria, 3 months of age

This is not to say that United is a paragon of good behavior.  They (and most airlines) have a sneaky lounge policy that makes all children over the age of two (all non-lap kids) a “guest” should they not have enough status on their own for entry.  In our family, this year, it doesn’t matter when Ravi and I travel together because we both can sponsor Ellie in.  But what about families where only one spouse has status?  When flying back from the US last May I traveled with my friend Jim, who did not hold status with United.  When we tried to enter the lounge in Japan, United tried to tell me that either he or my 2 year old needed to stay out.  This is an effective way to try to ban kids without outright banning them.  Now, we were lucky that a random stranger sponsored in the odd person out, but after over 20 hours of flying (especially with a sick kid) I caused a very loud scene over it.  Lesson?  Lie and say she’s under 2 if I can get away with it (in E’s case I could’ve).  People say that kids don’t belong in these lounges…but you know what?  My kid eats some fruit, watches some Elmo, and chills out.  We have the option to take a shower (after 24 hours plus of travel).  And on that day?  She curled up on the couch and slept the entire time.  Yeah, she’s a real threat to peace and quiet.

Why would I take my kid to a nice restaurant?

How about that’s how she’ll learn to behave there?  When traveling, especially, we often treat ourselves to nice restaurants.  While at home it’s easy to find a sitter, but (a) I don’t always want to because it’s a special occasion (I want to go out with my daughter on mother’s day, and I want to go to a nice restaurant–sue me) (b) in a foreign country a sitter isn’t always an option and (c) I expect her to learn how to behave, so I expose her to places where behavior expectations are different than at McDonald’s.  Even in Asia, while I did take B along to Phuket, that’s not always going to be the case.  And in a country where English isn’t a common language or child rearing practices may make me wary of leaving a child with a stranger (hitting a kid…really common here), I’m not going to hire a sitter.

While Ruths’ Chris Steakhouses might not have a changing table in the bathroom, they do have high chairs.

Ruth’s Chris, Boston, Mother’s Day 2009

Should I leave a restaurant if my child is screaming uncontrollably?  Duh.  And I have.

But if my kid is behaving, why not treat her to a nice meal?  Let her get dressed up and come out with us?  At what age is it supposed to be appropriate?  Because honestly, when we’ve taken her to nice places, all I get is “she’s so good!” and “she’s so cute!”

Should a store ban a kid? What about an attraction?

When traveling, especially with a young kid (arguably when it’s easiest…prior to a year or so), they just go where you go.  Ellie has been to Museums, to Castles, to Harrods, to Loch Ness, to Mansions, to just about everything.  But the younger she was, the more my agenda drove our travels (especially as often we were traveling as trailing kid/spouse of Ravi at a convention).  Sure I took her to a few kids museums, but my 2 month old doesn’t give a damn about being at a kid friendly place as opposed to a Rembrandt Exhibit, as she’s going to sleep through it regardless…and I’m the one who’ll enjoy it.

Granted, now that Ellie is going on 3, we do more kid geared travel.  We try to find stuff she’ll like and make compromises so that we can do more adult things on our own (Ravi watched 10 month E so I could see Evita in London, for example).  But that doesn’t mean that if we made it to Argentina, we wouldn’t just take her with us to a high end steak restaurant along with an aquarium day.

What are the benefits of kids being allowed in?

Look, maybe I’m just kidding myself and Elanor is a well behaved (mostly, we’ve had epic whining lately) freak of nature, but I truly believe that the way you get a child to be a good traveler and a well behaved in public kid is to expose them to the wide world.  Ravi was flying internationally from a few months of age and was always a good traveler…ditto with E.  I’ve been flying since I was 20, and arguably I’m the least good traveler in the family.  Ellie knows the rules are different at dress up places than they are at McDonald’s.  Ellie has learned limits.

The only way that kids become good, productive members of society is when they’re allowed to participate in it.

If you disagree, well, I’m sure there will be a court case or several that you can argue soon enough.  If it were Boston and I were there, I’d be first in line.  My child is a person.  My child is not an accessory, or a nuisance, or a coat I can check.  She is a citizen, and she has rights.

You can say I’m elitist (that some of my argument with regards to me personally involves invoking status and the privlege of wealth) and you’re welcome to do so.  But those are factors that when you’re talking about elite institutions  like top tier hotels, top tier planes classes, high end restaurants, etc…it matters.  I am their clientele specifically because of my income level.  None of it negates the argument I make initially about things like the 14th amendment and other laws that say age should not be a factor.

If you want an adults only place, they exist…they’re called private clubs.  Go ahead, make one.  I won’t sue you over it, and I’m sure you’ll make good money.  But don’t think you can ban my kid from a public place and not have me call bullshit on you.

Hotel Review – The Conrad, Hong Kong

Just as Ravi and I cashed in airline miles to fly to Hong Kong, we also cashed in hotel frequent stay points to pay for our hotel room.  We have status (and a reserve of points we’ve been saving up) with Hilton, and as the only Hilton brand hotel in Hong Kong is The Conrad, our decision about where to stay was made for us.

The Conrad brand is the “luxury” brand of the Hilton chain, so I was looking forward to staying there.

When we landed at the airport, we went searching for a large taxi reservation desk (what we call maxicabs in Singapore and we’d call a van in Boston).  The two suitcases we’d brought could easily fit in the trunk of a regular cab, but the wheelchair meant we needed something bigger.  Instead we found kiosks for various hotel chains and properties, and we (correctly) assumed that The Conrad desk could help us out.  We were whisked out to a nicely appointed car with either an extremely large trunk or a magician of a driver, because all three items fit in the trunk of the otherwise small car with ease.

Upon arrival at the hotel, we were whisked past “regular” check-in and taken to the Club Level Lounge on the 59th floor.  There we were seated (not that I wasn’t already, thanks to the wheelchair) and checked in privately (something I had hitherto only experienced at the Hilton in Bombay–which is now an Oberoi).  We were thankful that our room was available for immediate check-in (it was only noon or so, and official check in was at 3), and we were escorted to our 60th floor room.

The key to making a guest feel welcome is little touches.  The Conrad excels at little touches.

We were welcomed with hot tea within minutes of having checked into the room

We arrived back at the hotel our first night to see branded teddy bears waiting for us in the turned down bed

(also, slippers on both sides of the bed in a guaze bag, should we want to use them)

Complementary fruit and chocolate were delivered to the room daily

Who doesn’t love a rubber ducky for the bath?

(I arranged the towel, orchid and duck for the shot, and then faded the color saturation in this shot in post-production)

Bible?  Teachings of Buddha?  Or do you want to learn how to build a hotel empire from Conrad Hilton?

Another nice touch was the two different robe options (heavy terry cloth in the bathroom, and light cotton ones in the closet).  For us, that the closet was a walk-in was incredibly useful, as my chair stowed away nicely in there, not cluttering the room.

As a person in a wheelchair in not-so-accessible Hong Kong, I presented a few issues.  We elected not to get an “accessible room” (in part because there were no Club Level accessible rooms, or none available) and my wheelchair did not pass unfolded through the door.  For me, it wasn’t an issue as I had the crutch and was allowed to do some light walking, so I’d get out of the chair before entering the room and exit the room before sitting.  The chair would fold and then move in and out of the room.

We’re fairly independent travelers…we don’t go in for travel agents, concierges or “arranging” for the most part.  We’d rather book online, use google maps, and walk or take public transit.  But with the wheelchair, we constantly needed to ask for help.  The Conrad always stepped up…asking a taxi to park closer to the curb so I could more easily transition in and out of the cab, once physically lifting the chair over a curb, and when we had dinner reservations at Ruth’s Chris but couldn’t figure out how to get there–personally escorted through a confusing warren of buildings and elevators to avoid the street (and its lack of a pedestrian cross-way).  I was impressed and grateful at how effortlessly they went out of their way to help us find solutions.

On Friday and Saturday nights they hold a dessert bar.  We elected to skip dinner and eat dessert instead on Saturday.  There was an assortment of desserts that would appeal to any sweet tooth from crepes, souffles and fruit flambéd over ice cream on order to chocolate puddings (effectively a molten chocolate cake) to cheesecakes to tarts and cream puffs.  Not for a lack of effort, but I don’t think we even managed to try everything once.  The dessert bar is held at the main bar in the lobby, and at least on the night we were there, they also had a woman with a lovely voice providing live music.

 

Would you like a crêpe?

Individual white chocolate cheesecake?

Or a song to accompany your consumption of the delicious goodies?

One thing I hadn’t understood about Hong Kong when we booked the trip was that it’s comprised of a small section on the mainland (over the border from China) and then a series of islands.  The Conrad is on Hong Kong Island, in a section of town with a lot of upscale hotels, restaurants and shopping.  It’s connected to the Pacific Place Mall, and the Admiralty MTR subway stop.  Had I not been in the wheelchair, I daresay I would have declared it incredibly easy to get everywhere from there…with a wheelchair, get used to cabs and get used to few curbs having an accessibility ramp.

Although Hong Kong is among the world’s most packed and bustling cities, the view from our room was surprisingly green.

The next day, when it was overcast, the clouds/mist made this same scene look almost magical

No hotel is perfect, and there were a few things that weren’t as impressive as we were otherwise expecting.  The breakfast buffet was okay, but firmly middle of the pack in terms of selection and taste.  The gift shop had very limited hours and almost no selection–it seemed to mostly have jewelry on offer.  There were some amenties and some magazines, but not a great selection.  There was no food for sale (and over the years I’ve come to rely on the gift shop for snack fixes, so this stung).

Sadly, The Conrad is not a cheap hotel.  The average room rate is about 400+USD (which is why we’ve only ever stayed in Conrad brand hotels on other people’s money–my in-laws paid for our honeymoon room, or on points).  Even with our usual brand loyalty to Hilton, unless we use points, I don’t see us going back to The Conrad on future stays in Hong Kong.  But if it’s within your price (or frequent stay points) range, I highly encourage you to stay there.

Leaving on a Jet Plane…

Tomorrow morning we leave for a luxurious 5 day 4 night CHILD-FREE vacation in Hong Kong.

I’m both excited and frustrated.  Frustrated because it doesn’t seem as though HK is easily transversed in the wheelchair, but perhaps if we go slow I can manage with my crutches for a half day to do some of the non-acessible stuff?  If not, I guess there’s always Hong Kong Disney, which as with all Disney experiences is ridiculously accessible.  The fact that it’s also a short (3-4 hour) plane ride makes it a destination that we can easily return to later when I’m healed, so it’s not a huge deal.

This will be my first time in Hong Kong, and my 4th destination traveled to in Asia (the other 3 are India, Singapore-duh, and Thailand).

I’m looking forward to the cooler weather there (I’m told by weather.com that it will be in the mid to high 60′s while we’re there) and breaking out my jeans for the first time since our US trip.

Even more, I’m looking forward to a nice vacation as a couple.  Ravi and I have done a few overnights before this, we’ve spent maybe 5 nights away from Ellie since she was born, the longest being a short weekend trip to California to catch a Cindy Alexander show (link is to my video of her singing “4 hours”-the song we danced to at our wedding) when Elanor had just turned 1.  The last time we spent a night away from E was our anniversary this past July 15th for one night.

I’m also super excited because we decided to splurge and use some of our frequent flier miles to fly first class.  I’ve only done that once before-on my honeymoon (which, come to think of it, also involved medical drama and a wheelchair–my back was screwed up and it was prior to the surgery).  I can’t wait to sit in my little first class pod, drink some champagne and not have to play Elmo even once.  I have two back issues of people magazine, some trashy novels loaded on my Kindle and maybe I’ll even close my eyes and relax without having to worry about keeping an eye/ear open for my toddler.

We’re staying at the Conrad Hong Kong, and I can’t wait to kick back in my room with a pack of bubble gum and rent a non-SG edited for my safety and delicate senses movie.

The major event we’re attending is my Christmas present from Ravi–the Taylor Swift concert on Monday night.  I’m not usually into concerts at all (give me broadway any day) but it’s really rare for an American artist I like to come to Singapore, so going feels like a small “American” experience.

 

Marina Bay Sands and The State of the Break

Sorry it’s been a bit quiet here on Expat Bostonians.  It’s more than a little difficult to write a blog about experiencing life in Singapore when, due to the break, you’re not leaving the house much.  And while I haven’t been shoveling snow like my beleaguered Bostonian pals, my day to day life in the house isn’t all that interesting. Sure, I could share a cute E story here and there, but my days have basically amounted to “laid/sat in bed surfing the web and watching episode after episode of Nostalgia Critic and Nostalgia Chick, checking facebook and twitter endlessly and watching movies” or “laid/sat on the couch watching toddler tv with E, hanging out with E, having E point to my cast 80 jillion times a day and proudly informing me that it’s “Mommy’s Cast!” and then looking at my other leg/foot (the cast-less one) and dismissively calling it “Mommy’s other foot,” wheeling around the house–which means in the living room as the wheelchair can’t get into any of the other rooms, and occasionally leaving the house for something deathly exciting like a trip to McDonalds because I’m about to lose my fucking mind.

While I was desperate for blog material, at no time have I been desperate enough to turn on local tv.  Just saying.

I go back to the orthopedist on Monday (Jan 31) and get x-rays and such.  With luck, I’ll be able to upgrade to the fiberglass cast I can remove, making daily showers no longer just a fond memory.

We had a bright moment though, as my in-laws came to town for a week last week.  Mostly they got poor Elanor out of the house, leaving me to sleep (to people who’ve broken bones–did you sleep a lot?  I seem to be practically narcoleptic these days…and I can’t blame the painkillers because I’m down to a half dose at bedtime if at all) or use a few hours productively in the pursuit of a shower (not easy to do when you can’t stand up, you can’t get your cast wet, and you don’t want help), and playing bridge (which has always been a big thing when we get together).  Ravi also took an extra day off, and suddenly, BOOM…we left the house several days in a row!

Something I’ve been wanting to do for ages is visit the Sky Park at Marina Bay Sands.  Ravi and I first noticed it back on our first date here in Singapore, when we did the Singapore Flyer (which is only a few blocks away from MBS).  We wondered what that strange three-towered building with what looked like half a cruise ship sitting across their roofs was, exactly.  It was several months before I first heard the words “Marina Bay Sands” in connection with it.  It was still under construction when we moved here, and only began to open some of its businesses, bars, and such over the fall.  At some point in November or December, the SkyPark opened, and since then it has felt like all of my friends have been there (Flora, I thought you’d posted a visit, too, but couldn’t find one–did I hallucinate?).

The Sky Park is located on the 56/57th floor of the MBS hotel (not to be confused with the MBS Casino, the MBS Convention Center, the Shoppes at Marina Bay, the Marina Bay link Mall or any of the other squadrillion things with the words “Marina Bay” or “Marina Bay Sands” in the title).

In a very strange twist, you have to go down a level from the main floor of the hotel (tower 3, fyi) to get to the ticket seller.  In a complex that is chock-a-block full of elevators and ramps, there is no accessible way down to the ticket seller; only an escalator.  This seems like a purely stupid oversight, as I was not the only person I saw in a wheelchair in the hotel/shopping complex that day, or even at the sky park (which is mostly otherwise wholly accessible).

Ravi and Amit got the tickets while I took a few shots of the interior of the hotel.  Then we were escorted to an elevator bank so that we could get my chair up to the sky park.

It was a lovely day to be there…not overly hot or humid (the benefit of our daily monsoon rains), but it was a bit hazy, so while I could make out what I think was Malaysia, I’m not 100% sure.

Singapore ran out of land (or at least out of land they felt like leveling and denuding of trees in favor of malls) so they started a massive landfill project.  The MBS, Ravi’s new office building and everything you see under construction here is all build on landfill.  The curlicue in the top/middle of the shot is Marina Barrage, where the pit stop for the Singapore leg of Amazing Race was (season 16, episode 9...aired in the US right around when we moved here, ironically).  I have no idea what most of the other stuff is/will be.

Zoomed in shot of Marina Barrage

This little jungle island in the midst of all the construction struck me as particularly Singaporean.  Constant upgrading and construction, but constant attempts to keep some greenery, I suppose.

The floating stadium with various hotels and condos in the background.

Click on the photo to enlarge it.  You can see in the lower right the two “durians” that make up the Esplanade Theater complex.  At the bottom left is the Merlion fountain that is emblazoned on all the tourist stuff from Singapore.  The building in the middle is the old Supreme Court (yes?), and if you follow the river in the left third of the picture you can see Boat Quay and then Clarke Quay.  Our house would be just out frame (or maybe just in frame at the very top left).


A view of the docks of Singapore; one of the busiest ports in the world.

After wandering the Sky Park, we wanted to go up to see the infinity pool and the bar (and get a few more views) one floor up.  You could easily walk up a set of stairs from the Sky Deck if you are physically able, but in a wheelchair, I had to go down to the first floor, switch elevator banks and go up to 57.  Again, in a hotel that is otherwise very conscientious of their disabled guests, this seems like a strange sour note.  Why not have a simple lift to get from the viewing deck to the pool deck?  It just seems like a strange oversight.

The pool deck made me want to spend a night at the hotel.  While tourists can see some of the “guests only” features like the infinity pool, the view so spectacular that I desperately want to see it for myself, and not from the veiled off tourist area.

A family sits in one of the jacuzzis, looking through the glass (sorry for the glare) at the many container ships waiting to enter the port.  There are three to five of these on the side of the tower overlooking the water.

On the other side of the tower is the infinity pool.  Built with a glass side, you have a totally unobstructed view of the city of Singapore.  It is a truly breathtaking view, and I was certainly envious of the guests who got to enjoy it.  Most of the guests made a point of taking their camera into the water (it looked like it was no more than a meter deep…3 feet, maybe 4) and taking shots of the city, as well as getting someone to take their picture leaning back against the glass in what (cropped properly) would make for a spectacular shot…you floating in mid air among the skyscrapers.

After our viewing, we explored the Shoppes (I hate that spelling) at Marina Bay, but I’ll save that for another post.

Thailand, Part 1

Getting to Thailand was fairly uneventful.  The flight was on time, our luggage arrived without problem, we got local sim cards for our cellphones at the airport, and were picked up by the scheduled transportation.  It was about an hour from the aiport to Patong Beach, where the resort was.  Everyone was hungry, but we decided to wait until the hotel to eat.

We elected for Thai food at the hotel, but were somewhat underwhelmed…it being hotel food.

Once the rooms were settled, B and I took Elanor to the kids pool, but were sidetracked on the way.

The kids pool was a wading pool, about the depth of Elanor chest.  She enjoyed it, at least for a half hour or so, especially the multiple sprays of water directed at the pool.

Afterward, Ravi and his dad were running an errand and Suchita wanted to rest, so B, Ellie and I decided to go and explore.  We changed E out of her bathing suit and into clothes, grabbed the stroller and headed out.

Phuket is not a city that is friendly to stroller or those who need accessible entrance.  The sidewalks are uneven, drivers don’t really pay attention to the concepts of lanes or crosswalks, and I don’t recall seeing stoplights in that part of Phuket.  Getting across a road required a delicate balance of judgment, playing chicken, and using other tourists as a shield between traffic and the stroller (assuming they would at least slow down a car that mowed into us, I reasoned fatalistically).

Across from our hotel was this

The “shopping paradise” was a rabbit warren of shops selling “real fake” purses, electronics, shoes, and clothes, tourist crap, bars, and food stalls.  And of course the bootleg dvds–everyone wanted us to buy those.  The sellers were aggressive in a way I hadn’t encountered since India, although they were less intimidating than what we’d run into in India.  In India people grab your arms, and pester you for a fairly long distance.  In Phuket, they’ll verbally accost you, but do not follow you or touch you (although, as in Singapore, kids are considered public property and Elanor’s cheek was patted, her hair petted and occasionally she would be picked up if she were walking along the street) so it was only annoying and not intimidating.  The goods were fairly unimpressive, as I don’t really have a need for “real fakes” or tons of touristy stuff.

B and I noticed something odd, though.  At all the bars, there would be a big piece of wood with nails in it.  What was up with that?  Eventually I asked the bartender, but neither she nor her co-bartender had enough English.  Luckily there were Aussies (and there were Aussies everywhere–we rarely encountered anyone white who wasn’t Aussie–which of course makes sense from a distance perspective) to explain it to us.

It’s a drinking game, of course.

You each get a nail and hammer it in just far enough that it stands on its own.  Then you each get a single hit to try and force it all the way down, but whoever gets it in further gets a drink from the loser.  Later googling also told me it’s one of the games “bar girls” play–they look all small and cute and then kick your ass at this game (and also four square in Phuket, commonly…which is a bit of a head scratcher, but whatever) and then you have to buy them an overpriced drink (which they pocket some money for from the bar).  For the record, neither B nor I even managed to hit the nail…coordination…we don’t have it.

Elanor had fallen asleep in the stroller, so we wandered for a good hour or so, eventually ending up in what felt like a more residential area.  Patong Beach was one of the beaches hit by the tsunami in December 2004.  (If you want to read a first person account of what it was like to be in Patong Beach during the tsunami, go here.)  Perhaps because of that, I was somewhat more aware of the constant tsunami evacuation route signs we saw.

In the resorts (and I visited a few in search of the swim diapers I forgot to bring with us), you couldn’t tell that there had been such devastation 5-6 years ago.  But once you were out on the street, the poverty was obvious.  The way the street stalls were built, the lack of dental care, even the way the power lines were built showed you in a far more visceral way than the strength of the dollar versus the baht, how the country was struggling (and not just because of the tsunami).

Unlike the racous and somewhat garish tourist area, the residential streets were quieter, dirtier, and sadder.  You took closer notice as the stray, mangy dogs sized you up as a possible source of food or perhaps as an opponent.  Paint peeled, clothes hung to dry over your head, and the smell became uncomfortable–putrid water and worse.  It was hard to believe we were just a block back from the neon crowds, the dvd hawkers, the unceasing roar of motorcyles flaunting any notion of lanes.  I think it was good to see this side of Phuket-it’s easy to stay by your pretty hotel pool with the swim up bar, to delight in the small joys of reading a book by a pool, or getting one of the best massages ever.  It’s easy to just become annoyed at those who constantly accost you on the beach and on the street trying to sell you something.  When you see what their lives are like (and let’s not kid ourselves, these are some of the luckier people), you understand just why they’re so desperate to find that stupid trinket that will reel in more business, more baht to feed their family.

However, it was also scary.  I quickly put away my camera (although my skin, my helper and my suv-esque stroller all still marked me as an obvious tourist), and tried to walk in a way that would get us back to the touristy parts as quickly as possible.  We were “lost” for maybe 15 minutes, but it was unnerving.  If I’d been alone, I don’t think I would have been as nervous, but knowing that I was responsible for B and E certainly made me more anxious to get back to the more readily defined spaces.  Plus, it smelled really bad.

Once back on the main road, it was an easy 15 minute walk back to the hotel (in that it was direct).  However, the sidewalks, hawkers, and a toddler who wanted out of the stroller did not make “easy.”

It was an interesting introduction to Patong…but only our first of 6 days.

Wordless Wednesday-Phuket Edition

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